More gripping news on the grip

Finally, I think I understand what a sound grip should be like - for full shots. My grip had become progressively stronger (rotated right or rearward) although all the while I thought I had a neutral grip. As a result, my improved swing plane (in-out-in, technically) caused me to have problems with hooking. As mentioned, a comment by a fellow competitor alerted me to this and subsequent research was very revealing.

A neutral grip is the optimum grip for squaring the club face at impact, which is the ideal club face condition, unless you are deliberately playing a specialty shot (e.g. a big draw or fade). Explanations on how to achieve this grip are plentiful on the web, but you have to be careful with the terminology about palm versus finger grips; this terminology can be interpreted several ways. I think this can be simplified.

The important thing for the left hand (for right handers) is to take a grip that allows the thumb to rest somewhat to the right-hand side of the grip. For a neutral grip, this is probably in about the 1 o'clock position as you look down. However, this can be varied slightly according to personal preference  without a major effect on the club face alignment - which should ideally be square (at right-angles to the target line) at address - and stay square when you lift the club to waist height. By the way, ignore the knuckle references: knuckles vary in their prominence and visibility, and are a poor guide.

For the right hand (the physically stronger and lower hand for right handers) the placement is more critical. If it is rotated a long way to the right, into what is called the stronger position, this will have a major effect on the club face alignment, not obvious at address, but very clear once the club is lifted to the waist high position. This is a right hand grip position actually recommended for some golfers, particularly golfers fighting a slice. It is, however, fraught with danger for the average to better golfer, who ends up fighting a hook. No need to discuss an extremely weak right hand position - this is very rare.

The correct, neutral, right hand position can be pictured and felt quite easily. The centre of the right hand, the groove between the two heel pads is where the club shaft fits. And the right thumb overlaps the left thumb, so that it rests to the LEFT-HAND side of the grip (roughly in an 11 o'clock position as you look down). The right thumb should not rest on the top or right-hand side of the shaft, as this will promote the strong grip discussed above. The correct placement promotes a square club face position, both at address and throughout the swing.

Another check for a neutral grip is the alignment of the club face when the club is taken back to parallel with the ground, as in a half or quarter swing. At that point, the club face should be almost vertical, perhaps just about 10 degrees down, allowing for body tilt. A severely down facing club face  (e.g. 45 degrees) at this point indicates a strong, club face closing, grip.

Having said all of this, there are pros and good amateurs who, for various reasons, play with a strong grip, both left and right hands, but they compensate for it by having very active legs and hips and inactive arms and wrists (aka Zac Johnson), which keeps the club face from closing too soon. Most weekend players use their arms too much to accommodate this grip and swing.

By the way, a strong grip and closed club face is not an effective cure for slicing. As often as not, pull slices will persist, just with more pull and lots of inconsistency. The cure for the slice is a decent in-out-in swing plane and a neutral club face at impact. A strong grip is a quick fix at best; curing a slice requires much more work.

But I'm very happy with my gripping realisation. Can't wait to bed in my new and improved grip.